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You’ve seen the celebs wearing it, you’ve seen your friends rocking it, but as for you, you just don’t get it.
Yes, we’re talking – lip liner! One of the most underrated and overrated makeup products out there, depending on how you look at it. Overrated because those who get it, love it and won’t stop banging on about it. And underrated because not everyone understands how to use it or what it’s for (so sometimes it feels best to just ignore it).
Well, in about five minutes time those who need a little extra guidance will hopefully know a little more about our friend, the lip liner. Because here, Ruby Hammer, makeup artist and founder of Ruby Hammer Beauty, answers everything you need to know about lip liner.
What is a lip liner?
“Lip liners are pencils that come in all shades,” Hammer explains. “They have a harder formula/texture than other lip products such as lip gloss or lipstick.”
“It helps define the lip area, especially when you lose the volume or shape and want to rebalance if it’s not in proportion or as full as desired,” she says.
Personally, I have a full-ish shaped lip, but only in the middle so my outer lips are quite thin. So, I use my lip liner at the top and bottom outer corners of my lips, to bring out my outer lip line and to create the illusion of fuller lips overall.
Image – Adobe
How do you know if you need a lip liner?
Well, not everyone does and Hammer says it comes down to personal choice “Some people are very happy using just lipstick, but some people want it to last longer and lining the lips with a pencil helps this.”
“Using a lip liner will also give you more definition and shape.”
How do you pick your shade of lip liner?
There are a few ways you can approach lip liner. Personally, I suit paler lip colours, mainly pink or peachy-toned. However, this doesn’t do much to enhance my lip shape.
So, to get the best of both worlds, I use a lip liner that is half a tone darker (no more!) than the colour of my lipstick. The two together create a very slight ombre finish and the outline of my lips is subtly accentuated. Just don’t go too dark around the lip line though or it won’t look natural.
Hammer says you can go more ‘matchy’ too. “If trying to look more natural, then you would use a nude that matches the shade of your lip,” she explains.
“This is different for everyone as we all have different skin colours and tones. Alternatively, you can match it to the lip product you are using. It’s all by trial and error and there is no set formula to know what will work for each individual.”
Experimentation is key but my advice would be to buy the corresponding lip liner to your favourite lipstick as a starting point and take it from there. Recommendations to come…
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How do you apply lip liner?
“If you want a dramatic look or one that will be longer lasting, then applying it before doing any other lip products will help with this,” she says. “However, I personally find this approach can look quite harsh.”
She continues, “I prefer to use the coordinating pencil after you’ve applied the lipstick, balm or gloss, especially around the corners and cupid bows to enhance the lip shape. Applying after gives it a softer effect and less of a harsh drawn-on/cartoonish effect.”
The technique I have always been taught as a beauty editor for applying lip liner is to start from the middle and work your way outwards. Apply it just above your natural lip liner – but only just. You want to make the best of your natural lip shape, not create a whole new one.
Three beauty editor-approved lip liners to try
1. I use Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat in Pillow Talk (£21 on the Charlotte Tilbury UK website/$25 on the Charlotte Tilbury US website) when wearing a natural pink lipstick. I love how soft it feels on the skin, it’s pretty nudey-pink colour and the fact that it lasts.
2. Kiko Milano Gold Reflections 12h Wear Waterproof Lip Liner (£10.99 on the Kiko UK website) comes in lots of shades and glides around the lips easily.
3. Rare Beauty Kind Words Lip Liner (£15 on the Space NK UK website/$15 on the Rare Beauty US website) is super creamy and has 11 shades to match up with all 11 shades of Rare Beauty Kind Words Matte Lipstick. But also, who doesn’t want lips like Selena Gomez?
Image – Rare Beauty
The takeaway
You should see lip liner as a lip enhancer, not one that changes your lip shape completely, so remember not to draw too far over your natural lip line.
Hammer believes that applying your lip liner before your lipstick or gloss does make it last longer, however, she says this can look a little harsh so apply it last if this is the case.
You can either go half a tone darker than your lipstick or gloss with your lip liner like I do, or match it up. The choice is yours. But the best way to find out what works best for you is to experiment as much as you can.
Meet the expert
Ruby Hammer MBE is an award-winning makeup artist with over 30 years of experience and the founder of Ruby Hammer Beauty.
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